By Dane Feldman
Photo by Dane Feldman.
On 9th Avenue and 53rd Street in Manhattan sits Eatery NYC, a “new American restaurant.” While this spot is open for brunch (even on weekdays!) and dinner, I stopped in for brunch on a Saturday.
I know I’m getting old because after a night of very moderate drinking, but way too little sleep, I found myself feeling almost too light-headed to want any food at all. Unfortunately, that resulted in a missed opportunity. Eatery’s brunch menu is an impressive one: Sweet Corn Grits with Poached Eggs (served with honey roasted ham and jalapeno-cheddar sauce), Santa Fe Sweet Potato Hash Brown (served with scrambled egg whites and mango guacamole), and even Tempura Calamari (with hijiki, fresh mango, and white ponzu sauce) are all on offer.
I, however, figured I could only stomach something plainer and starchier. I went for the Corn Flake Crusted French Toast (served with orange marmalade, fresh berries, and cinnamon syrup) instead. These were delicious and the serving size was just right (read: not disgustingly large), but I found them a bit sticky. In other words, this included even more sugar than I anticipated. Don’t order these without a toothbrush on hand.
Eatery boasts a lengthy cocktail menu filled with wild updates on old classics (think an Old Fashioned, but served with orange vodka and lime juice), as well as a solid list of beers on tap and by the bottle. Of course, for brunch consumed following post-evening festivities, I required a bit of the hair of the dog. I ordered iced coffee, water, and a mimosa. The mimosa was on point, but too big for me to finish. I would have preferred a smaller size for a few less dollars.
The wait staff here is friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable. Of course, this is simply based on opinion, but I only wish I hadn’t taken the waiter’s recommendation for the French toast over the Ricotta-Lemon Pancakes served with fresh berries and blackberry compote.
Eatery reminds me a bit of Cafeteria, though the prices are far more reasonable. The spot is casual, but stylish, and is also open late. It draws a hip crowd of all ages, which is impressive considering its proximity to both the Theatre District and Hell’s Kitchen (not to mention Fordham University at Lincoln Center).